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SIRACUSA



Siracusa Città e capoluogo di provincia della Sicilia, è situata nella parte sudorientale dell'isola, sul mar Ionio. Si estende in parte sulla piccola isola dell'Ortigia, che separa le insenature del Porto Grande e del Porto Piccolo, ed è collegata con la terraferma tramite un ponte.
La città è il principale mercato per i prodotti del circostante territorio agricolo, oltre che attivo porto commerciale e peschereccio, centro industriale alimentare, chimico, metalmeccanico e del legno. È inoltre un frequentato centro turistico. La provincia, che comprende 21 comuni ed è per oltre due terzi collinare e per il resto pianeggiante, è dedita all'agricoltura (cereali, agrumi, ulivo, vite, ortaggi), all'allevamento di ovini e caprini, alla pesca. Ad Augusta, porto commerciale e base navale militare, ha sede un centro di produzione petrolchimica, alimentare (conservazione del pesce) e di sale marino.
La Siracusa di oggi, che nel 1943 fu porto di sbarco degli Alleati e venne gravemente danneggiata dalle operazioni belliche del conflitto mondiale, conserva, nell'isoletta dell'Ortigia, il suo centro storico, nel quale le vie aperte successivamente hanno solo in parte celato la minuta tessitura urbanistica medievale di origine araba, e dove si trovano, fra tracce sparse di varie epoche, notevoli monumenti, quali i resti del tempio di Apollo (VII-VI secolo a.C.), forse il più antico tempio dorico della Sicilia; il Duomo, costruito nel VII secolo inglobando il tempio greco di Atena, più volte rimaneggiato e con la facciata barocca risalente agli anni 1728-1754; il Castello Maniace, voluto da Federico II di Svevia nel 1239.
Nel Palazzo Bellomo, di impianto svevo con elementi gotico-catalani, è ospitata la Galleria nazionale, che espone l'Annunciazione di Antonello da Messina e il Seppellimento di santa Lucia del Caravaggio.
Da citare la via della Maestranza, antica strada medievale oggi d'aspetto barocco, e via Vittorio Veneto, risalente al periodo spagnolo; la fonte Aretusa, presso il lungomare che guarda il Porto Grande, ornata da papiri, legata al mito della ninfa mutata in fonte da Artemide; la fonte Ciane, a 7 km dal centro verso sud-ovest, che ricorda un analogo mito, in un'area ricca di papiri, oggi Riserva naturale protetta.
Sulla terraferma, nell'area degli antichi quartieri della Tyche e dell'Acradina, si estendono la città moderna e il parco archeologico della Neàpoli, cinto in parte dal panoramico viale Rizzo. All'interno vi si trovano, fra l'altro: il grandioso teatro greco (V-III secolo a.C.), scavato nella roccia del colle Temenite, dove nel 476 a.C. fu rappresentata la tragedia Le Etnee di Eschilo e dove tuttora si tengono suggestive rappresentazioni classiche; l'ara di Gerone II, tagliata nel calcare e dalle gigantesche proporzioni (23x180 m); l'anfiteatro romano del III-IV secolo d.C., in parte scavato nella roccia, lungo 140 m; la Latomia del Paradiso, antica cava di pietra calcarea profonda fino a 45 m e densa di vegetazione, nella quale si trovano il celebre Orecchio di Dioniso, stretto intaglio che amplifica i suoni e che, secondo la leggenda, serviva al tiranno per ascoltare le parole dei prigionieri ivi rinchiusi, e l'ampia Grotta dei Cordari, con volta e pilastri di roccia conservati, che fu occupata da botteghe di artigiani; la Latomia di Santa Venera, sistemata a giardino; la necropoli dei Grotticelli e la via dei Sepolcri, con tombe scavate nella roccia nelle successive epoche greca, romana e bizantina.
Di grande interesse sono inoltre le catacombe di San Giovanni (IV-V secolo), un sistema di gallerie con migliaia di loculi. Il ricchissimo Museo archeologico, istituito nel 1988, ospita le sezioni di preistoria, di protostoria, del periodo greco (pregevole è una Venere anadiomene, del II secolo a.C.), di quello delle subcolonie e dei centri indigeni ellenizzati e, non ancora ordinate, di quello ellenistico e romano. Non lontano, s'erge il moderno e grande santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime; più a sud, sono visibili resti del Ginnasio romano, complesso forse del I secolo d.C. A circa 8 km verso nord-ovest sorge, infine, la fortezza greca chiamata Castello Eurialo (402-397 a.C.), magnifica opera di difesa costruita durante le guerre contro i cartaginesi, situato nel punto più alto dell'altopiano dell'Epìpolis.

STORIA
Il primo nucleo della città fu fondato nel 734 a.C. da coloni corinzi che occuparono l'Ortigia. In seguito l'antica Syrakousai si trasformò rapidamente in un emporio commerciale, dando vita al quartiere Acradina sulla terraferma e a tre subcolonie, e diventando una delle maggiori città della Sicilia. Venne governata da una serie di tiranni, che la arricchirono sviluppandone i commerci e costruendo imponenti edifici: Gelone nel 480 a.C. la condusse alla vittoria contro i cartaginesi e Gerone I, nel 474 a.C., contro gli etruschi. La città venne fortificata da Dionisio I intorno al 400 a.C., il quale, dopo l'assedio ateniese respinto nel 413 a.C., fece circondare con un'unica cinta di mura i vari settori. Siracusa, infatti, si era sviluppata in quattro quartieri: oltre all'isola e all'Acradina, la Tyche e la Neàpolis, che ospitavano i grandi monumenti; insieme a un'area difensiva a nord, l'Epípolis, questi quattro quartieri formavano la cosiddetta pentàpoli.
Nel V secolo la città ospitò grandi poeti, come Pindaro ed Eschilo e nel 287 a.C. diede i natali al matematico e fisico Archimede, le cui geniali costruzioni difensive non riuscirono tuttavia a salvarla nel 211 a.C. dalla capitolazione nei confronti dei romani.
Colonia sotto Augusto, Siracusa decadde progressivamente e subì le invasioni barbariche; quindi fu dominata da bizantini, arabi, normanni, svevi, angioini, aragonesi, spagnoli e infine dai sovrani borbonici: oltre un millennio durante il quale si alternarono periodi di arresto evolutivo e di attiva ripresa. Dopo il grande terremoto del 1693, la città venne in parte ricostruita secondo i canoni dell'architettura barocca.
La presenza umana è documentata sull’isola di Ortigia – dove poi sorse il primo nucleo della città – fin dal XIV secolo a.C., ma Siracusa, seconda colonia greca di Sicilia dopo Náxos, fu fondata nell’VIII secolo a.C. dai corinzi, che le diedero il nome della vicina palude Syraka. La storia della ricca e potente città greca, che dopo la conquista romana verso la fine del III secolo a.C. iniziò una lenta decadenza, è ripercorsa nel brano seguente.

SIRACUSA GRECA e ROMANA
L’esplorazione archeologica degli ultimi decenni ha confermato, con sempre maggiore chiarezza, la presenza umana nell’isola di Ortigia fin dal secolo XIV a.C. (resti di capanne circolari si sono rinvenuti nell’area del Duomo e del palazzo di Città). Nel corso del secolo VIII a.C. l’abitato indigeno viene sostituito da una nuova fondazione a opera di un gruppo di Corinzi guidati da Archia (734 o 733 a.C.); a questo nuovo insediamento, che costituì la seconda colonia greca di Sicilia, probabilmente fin dall’inizio viene dato il nome di Siracusa dalla vicina palude “Syraka”. In breve tempo la città cresce economicamente e politicamente in misura tale che, dopo soli settant’anni, fonda tre subcolonie, Akrai (664), Casmene (643) e Camarina (598), importanti caposaldi strategici per la difesa del territorio e chiari segni della propria politica espansionistica. Scarse notizie si ricavano dalle fonti sulla vita interna della città durante il primo periodo. Si sa che fu agitata da discordie intestine fra i nobili (“gamoroi”), discendenti dai primi coloni, e il popolo (“killichirioi”), fino a che, agli inizi del secolo V a.C., i “gamoroi” vennero cacciati; vi fecero ritorno con l’aiuto di Gelone, tiranno di Gela (485 a.C.), che potè così impadronirsi della città procurandole, peraltro, un periodo di notevole floridezza e la conseguente espansione fuori dall’isola di Ortigia.
Nell’organizzazione della città, all’originario impianto, costituito da case monocellulari di forma quadrangolare, si sovrappose fin dal secolo VII a.C. un impianto regolare “per strigas” (secondo un sistema di strade parallele e ortogonali e isolati rettangolari), riconoscibile ancora oggi in alcuni brani del tessuto viario di Ortigia, nel quartiere della Giudecca e a ovest di via Cavour. Tale impianto si estese intorno all’agorà, posta probabilmente allo sbocco dell’istmo (nella piana fra i due porti fino all’attuale Stazione ferroviaria), e si sviluppò fino a occupare la terraferma nel quartiere denominato Acradina (forse dai papiri selvatici, “acradia”, che vegetavano nella zona), che fin da epoca molto antica fu circondata da mura. I limiti di questa espansione sono indicati, oggi, dalla posizione delle tre grandi necropoli arcaiche (tutte con tombe dei secoli VII e VI a.C.): quella del Fusco, nei pressi dell’attuale cimitero; quella del giardino Spagna, nella zona dell’Ospedale civile; una terza, minore, nell’area dell’attuale via Bainsizza, nella borgata di S. Lucia.
Nel corso del secolo VI a.C. e al principio del V, soprattutto per effetto del trasferimento di popolazioni da Gela, Megara Hyblaea e Camarina, imposto da Gelone, si svilupparono al di fuori delle mura due borgate aperte (“proasteia”): la Tyche e la Neàpoli. La Tyche (identificabile nell’attuale borgata S. Lucia) era così denominata per la presenza di un antico tempio della dea Fortuna; la Neàpoli occupava l’area sita a ovest della via per Catania, a monte della stazione ferroviaria sino alla balza del colle Temenite (cosiddetto dal “themenos” o recinto sacro di Apollo, ivi rinvenuto). Questo era l’assetto della città al tempo dell’assedio ateniese del 416-13 a.C.: l’Acradina cinta di mura, la Tyche e la Neàpoli difese da trinceramenti provvisori. Agli Ateniesi fu, pertanto, agevole impadronirsi dell’altopiano dell’Epìpoli, che sovrasta a nord la pianura, e, padroni delle zone più elevate, dirigere le operazioni d’assedio. Quest’esperienza, e la minaccia della guerra contro Cartagine, resero evidente la necessità di fortificare tutto l’altopiano.
Dionisio I, impadronitosi del potere nel 405 a.C., consolidata la propria egemonia trasforma Ortigia in una fortezza, allontanandone la popolazione civile e destinandola a uso proprio e delle milizie mercenarie; amplia la flotta, sistema gli arsenali e il porto piccolo (“lakkios”), e costruisce una grande fortezza sull’istmo. L’opera più grandiosa fu senza dubbio la costruzione di un’ampia cinta muraria che chiudeva, con un perimetro di 22 km, tutta la città, e che aveva un particolare punto di forza nel castello Eurìalo, straordinario esempio dell’ingegneria militare greca. All’interno di questa cinta la città, ricca e potente, è divisa in cinque quartieri (la “pentàpoli” di cui parla Cicerone): Acradina e Tyche, a carattere residenziale; Neàpoli, ricca di edifici monumentali; Epìpoli, con funzione strategica, e Ortigia, riservata al tiranno.
In seguito alla morte di Dionisio I, intorno alla metà del secolo IV, una lunga fase di lotte agita Siracusa, fino all’arrivo di Timoleonte, cittadino di Corinto, che promuove una grandiosa opera di riorganizzazione per la città e un vasto movimento di ricolonizzazione del territorio. Dopo un breve periodo di democrazia e prosperità Siracusa cede al dispotismo di Agatocle (318-289 a.C.), figlio di un vasaio di Himera (Tèrmini Imerese), che si impegna per circa un quarantennio nella lotta contro i Cartaginesi, portando avanti una politica di alleanze con i centri della Magna Grecia e assicurando alla città il controllo di un vasto territorio. Dopo la morte di Agatocle, Siracusa invoca l’aiuto di Pirro, re dell’Epiro (278 a.C.), nel corso della lotta contro i Cartaginesi, il più grave pericolo per la città; ma due anni dopo Ierone II, impadronitosi del potere, per riuscire a far fronte alla crescente e comune minaccia di Roma, si allea con Cartagine, trattando però con i Romani una pace separata. Per circa 50 anni Siracusa gode di uno stato di pace, che trova riscontro nella vivace attività edilizia; tra gli interventi più significativi si inserisce la sistemazione urbanistica della Neàpoli, con l’ampliamento del teatro e la costruzione di un immenso altare per i sacrifici pubblici (l’ara di Ierone).
L’assedio posto dal console romano Marcello nel 214, e protrattosi, grazie ai geniali mezzi di difesa escogitati da Archimede, per altri due anni, si conclude nella primavera del 212 con la conquista, prima, della Tyche, della Neàpoli, e, poco dopo, dell’Eurìalo; quindi, nonostante i soccorsi cartaginesi, sono espugnate anche l’Acradina e Ortigia. Pur rimanendo capitale della Sicilia e residenza dei pretori romani, Siracusa perde definitivamente la sua indipendenza, iniziando una lenta decadenza che raggiunge l’apice con la sistematica spoliazione del suo patrimonio artistico da parte di Verre; stremata e semispopolata, la città si restringe entro i limiti dell’area di Ortigia e di Acradina, fino ai confini della Neàpoli.

Per maggiori informazioni sui luoghi d’arte e di storia di Siracusa visita i seguenti siti:

http://www.siracusa-sicilia.it/siracusa.htm

http://www.ortigia.it/

 
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